In the world of horology, some stories are almost mythical. They are tales of disappearance and dramatic return, of brands once lost to time that have been brought back to life. These are the industry’s ‘Lazarus brands’, watchmakers resurrected from the annals of history to tick once more. This phenomenon is more than just a wave of nostalgia; it is a powerful trend fueled by a deep appreciation for heritage, a desire for authenticity, and the passion of entrepreneurs who see value where others saw only endings. The quartz crisis of the 1970s and 80s felled countless historic watchmakers, but today, a new generation of enthusiasts and visionaries are painstakingly reviving these sleeping giants. They are dusting off old blueprints, reconnecting with forgotten legacies, and blending classic design with modern technology. This chronicle will explore the fascinating stories behind some of today’s most compelling resurrected watch brands, from high-end masterpieces to rugged tool watches, each with a unique tale of revival.
The high-end renaissance of Czapek and Cie
The story of Czapek & Cie is a masterclass in reviving a truly prestigious name. François Czapek was a brilliant 19th-century watchmaker and an original partner of Antoni Patek, before Patek Philippe & Co. was formed. For a time, Czapek was a watchmaker to nobility, creating exquisite timepieces. Yet, the brand vanished into obscurity after his death, its legacy known only to the most dedicated horological historians. Its modern revival is as innovative as its historical creations. Instead of a single wealthy investor, Czapek & Cie was brought back in 2015 through a collaborative effort, including an international crowdfunding equity campaign that allowed watch lovers to become shareholders. This approach created an immediate and deeply invested community. The brand’s comeback piece, the ‘Quai des Bergues’ collection, was a stunning tribute to an original Czapek pocket watch, featuring a unique seven-day power reserve and a beautiful enamel dial. Today, Czapek stands as a symbol of independent, high-end watchmaking. It successfully honors its past not just by recreating old designs, but by embracing a spirit of innovation and community engagement that feels entirely modern. The brand has since expanded its collections with the Antarctique, a luxury sports watch that has been met with critical acclaim, proving that a Lazarus brand can compete at the highest levels of the industry.
Nivada Grenchen’s tool watch triumph
Nivada Grenchen represents a different kind of revival, one rooted in the world of rugged, purposeful tool watches. During its heyday in the mid-20th century, Nivada was known for producing some of the most robust and reliable timepieces available. Its most famous models, the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic, were built to withstand the most extreme conditions, from the depths of the ocean to the frozen plains of Antarctica. Like so many others, Nivada succumbed to the quartz crisis, and its sought-after vintage pieces became cult classics among collectors. The brand’s modern resurrection was spearheaded by a pair of passionate entrepreneurs who saw the enduring appeal of these designs. They chose not to reinvent the wheel but to faithfully recreate the brand’s most iconic models. The revived Nivada Grenchen launched with re-editions of the Chronomaster and the Antarctic, capturing the exact dimensions and aesthetic spirit of the originals while using modern, reliable Swiss movements. This strategy was a resounding success. By engaging directly with online watch communities and focusing on authenticity, Nivada Grenchen tapped into a market hungry for neo-vintage watches that tell a story. Their success demonstrates that a revival doesn’t always require a complete overhaul; sometimes, the most powerful move is to give people exactly what they loved in the first place.
Alsta the ‘Jaws’ watch surfaces again
Sometimes, a brand’s claim to fame is etched not in the halls of horological history, but on the silver screen. Such is the case with Alsta, a watchmaker that produced durable dive watches in the 1960s and 70s. The brand might have remained a footnote if not for its most famous appearance on the wrist of oceanographer Matt Hooper, played by Richard Dreyfuss, in the 1977 blockbuster ‘Jaws’. The watch, an Alsta Nautoscaph, became an icon of cinematic cool and a sought-after piece for collectors. Despite this fame, the Alsta brand itself faded away, another victim of the industry’s shift to quartz. Its revival in recent years is a testament to the enduring power of pop culture. The new Alsta Timepiece Company was resurrected with a clear mission to bring back the spirit of the ‘Jaws’ watch. The first release, the Nautoscaph II, was a direct homage to the original, followed by the Nautoscaph Superautomatic, which refined the design with modern materials and specifications like improved water resistance and a sapphire crystal. The revival was carefully managed to appeal to both film buffs and serious watch enthusiasts. It’s a perfect example of how a singular, iconic moment can provide the narrative fuel for a brand’s entire second act. Alsta’s story proves that a legacy can be built on more than just technical specifications; it can be built on a feeling, a memory, or a thrilling moment in cinematic history.
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The family legacy of Vertex
The revival of Vertex is one of the most personal and poignant stories in the watch industry. Founded in London in 1916 by Claude Lyons, Vertex grew to become a respected British watch brand. Its most significant contribution came during World War II, when it was chosen as one of just twelve companies to supply watches to the British military. These legendary timepieces, known as the ‘Dirty Dozen’, are now among the most collectible military watches in the world. After a long and successful run, Vertex closed its doors in 1972. The story would have ended there if not for Don Cochrane, the great-grandson of the founder. Driven by a deep sense of family history and a desire to honor his great-grandfather’s legacy, Don relaunched Vertex in 2016, exactly 100 years after its founding. The first new watch, the M100, was a brilliant modern interpretation of the original ‘Dirty Dozen’ Calibre 59 field watch. It retained the classic military aesthetic but was updated with a larger case size and a modern Swiss movement. The revival of Vertex is a powerful reminder that a brand can be more than a business; it can be a family heirloom. Don Cochrane’s personal connection to the brand gives it an unparalleled level of authenticity that resonates deeply with collectors who value story and heritage above all else.
Ollech and Wajs a commitment to utility
Ollech & Wajs, often abbreviated as OW, built its reputation on creating no-nonsense, highly dependable watches for professionals. Founded in Zurich in 1956, OW specialized in assembling robust dive and military watches using reliable movements and durable cases, often selling them directly to soldiers and pilots via mail order. Their watches were valued for their utility and affordability, becoming trusted tools for military personnel, including US soldiers in Vietnam. While the brand never fully disappeared, it faded significantly from the mainstream market for many years. Its modern revival has been a careful process of returning to the brand’s core principles of durability and function. The new era of OW watches, such as the P-104 pilot watch and the C-1000 dive watch, are engineered for extreme toughness. They are unapologetically tool-like in their design, featuring oversized crowns, highly legible dials, and robust Swiss automatic movements like the ETA 2824-2. The brand’s philosophy is ‘built for purpose’, and this is evident in every aspect of their timepieces. The Ollech & Wajs comeback story is one of unwavering commitment to a core identity. They have successfully re-established themselves by doubling down on what made them great in the first place, creating over-engineered, reliable tool watches for a new generation of adventurers and professionals who demand performance without compromise.
The elegant return of the Fears watch company
While many resurrected brands focus on military or dive watch heritage, the revival of Fears tells a story of British elegance and fine watchmaking. The Fears Watch Company was originally founded in Bristol, England, in 1846 by Edwin Fear. For over 130 years, it was a well-respected family-run business, producing a wide range of stylish and reliable watches. It tragically became one of the last British watch companies to close its doors in 1976. The brand lay dormant for four decades until it was re-established in 2016 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of the founder. Nicholas, who had previously worked for Rolex, embarked on a mission to bring his family’s legacy back to life. The modern Fears brand is defined by its motto, ‘Elegantly Understated’. Its signature design is the ‘Brunswick’, a beautiful cushion-cased watch that exudes a timeless, classic charm. Each watch is built in small batches, with meticulous attention to detail and a focus on quality craftsmanship. The revival of Fears is a stunning example of how a brand’s soul can be preserved across generations. It’s not just about bringing back a name; it’s about continuing a tradition of quiet confidence and sophisticated British design that was thought to have been lost to time.
The resurgence of these Lazarus brands is a profoundly optimistic trend in the watch world. It speaks to a collective desire for products with soul, history, and a tangible human connection. The stories of Czapek, Nivada Grenchen, Alsta, Vertex, Ollech & Wajs, and Fears are all unique, yet they share common threads of passion, perseverance, and a deep respect for the past. These revivals are not mere exercises in nostalgia; they are active continuations of a legacy. They prove that a brand is more than just a logo or a product line, it is a story. Success in this space requires a delicate balance, honoring the original designs that made the brand famous while innovating with modern materials and technology to meet the demands of today’s discerning consumer. As collectors and enthusiasts increasingly look for alternatives to the mainstream giants, these resurrected brands offer a compelling proposition. They offer a piece of history, a story of survival, and a chance to own a timepiece that is, in its own way, a small miracle. In a world that often prizes the new and the next, the Lazarus list is a powerful testament to the idea that some things are too good to be forgotten.
