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The underpainting revival: a masterclass on flawless makeup from within

The quest for a truly natural, ‘lit-from-within’ makeup look often feels like searching for a mythical creature. We see it on celebrities and models; a flawless complexion that seems to radiate health and dimension without a hint of heavy product. The secret, however, is not a new miracle product but a classic technique that has stormed back into the spotlight; underpainting. Popularized by makeup artists for decades and now revived by celebrity artists like Mary Phillips for clients such as Hailey Bieber, this method is dominating social media for its transformative yet subtle results. It flips the conventional makeup routine on its head, promising a finish that looks less like makeup and more like your skin, but better. This masterclass will guide you through the underpainting revival, exploring its history, the modern viral craze, and a step-by-step process. We will cover choosing the right products, avoiding common mistakes, and adapting the technique for a truly flawless finish that appears to come from within your own skin.

What is the underpainting technique really

At its core, underpainting is a makeup application method where dimensional products like contour and highlight are applied to the skin before the foundation. Instead of layering sculpting products on top of your base, you create the structure and shape of the face first. The foundation is then applied as the final step, acting like a sheer veil that unifies skin tone without erasing the carefully crafted dimension underneath. The result is a soft-focus, diffused sculpt that appears incredibly natural, as if the shadows and light are part of your actual bone structure. This approach is a stark contrast to the traditional method where foundation creates a flat canvas that you then have to rebuild with contour, blush, and highlighter, which can sometimes lead to a heavy or ‘caked-on’ appearance. The philosophy behind underpainting is one of enhancement rather than coverage. It is about working with your features to bring them forward in the most subtle way possible. While it may seem like a new TikTok trend, this technique is a time-honored secret among professional makeup artists. The legendary Kevyn Aucoin was a master of this method, using it to sculpt the faces of supermodels and stars long before it had a viral name. Its current revival speaks to a collective shift in beauty standards, moving away from the heavy Instagram makeup of the past and towards a more breathable, skin-centric ‘clean girl’ aesthetic.

The celebrity secret is out how social media fueled the revival

While underpainting has been a professional secret for years, its recent explosion into the mainstream can be credited almost entirely to celebrity makeup artist Mary Phillips and the power of social media. Phillips, the creative force behind the famously effortless looks of Hailey Bieber, Kendall Jenner, and Jennifer Lopez, shared her technique on platforms like TikTok, and the beauty world took notice immediately. Her videos, demonstrating the placement of contour and concealer before a light layer of foundation, went viral. Users were captivated by the seemingly magical transformation; a face that looked sculpted, glowing, and impossibly natural. The appeal was undeniable. It was the answer to the question so many people had; ‘How do they look so good with what looks like no makeup?’. The technique quickly became a massive trend, with millions of users trying it for themselves and sharing their results. This revival was perfectly timed, aligning with the growing desire for ‘soft glam’ and ‘skinimalism’. People were tired of heavy, multi-step routines and were seeking ways to achieve a polished look that still felt authentic. Underpainting provides exactly that. As one artist might put it,

The goal is to build the architecture of the face first, so the foundation’s only job is to even out the skin tone, not to provide the shape.

This simple shift in perspective has revolutionized how many people approach their daily makeup, proving that sometimes the most effective techniques are not about adding more, but about strategically layering less.

Choosing your tools the best products for underpainting

The success of the underpainting technique hinges on using the right type of products. Because you are layering, the texture and finish of each product are paramount to achieving a seamless blend. The universal rule is to use creams and liquids for your sculpting steps. Powder products will not blend well under a liquid or cream foundation and can result in a patchy, uneven mess. First, for your contour, select a cream or liquid formula that is one or two shades deeper than your skin tone with a cool or neutral undertone to mimic a natural shadow. Warm, orangey tones can look artificial. Next, for highlighting, choose a creamy concealer that is one to two shades lighter than your skin. This will be used to bring forward the high points of your face. Many people also incorporate a cream blush at this stage, applying it to the apples of the cheeks for a ‘flushed-from-within’ glow that melts into the skin. The most critical product choice, however, is your foundation. A full-coverage, matte foundation will completely cover your hard work, defeating the purpose of the technique. Instead, opt for a sheer to medium coverage foundation, a skin tint, or even a tinted moisturizer. The goal is to unify, not to mask. For application, a damp beauty sponge is often the preferred tool as it helps to press the products into the skin and blend them together for an airbrushed finish, especially when applying the final foundation layer. Dense brushes can also work well for buffing and blending the initial contour and highlight.

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A step by step guide to mastering the technique

Ready to try it for yourself? Mastering underpainting is all about placement and blending. Follow these steps for a flawless result. First and foremost is skin preparation. This technique works best on a smooth, hydrated canvas, so begin with your usual skincare routine, ensuring your face is well-moisturized and primed. Once your skin is prepped, it is time to sculpt. Take your cream contour and apply it strategically to the areas you want to define. This typically includes the hollows of your cheeks, along your jawline to create sharpness, on your temples for a lifted effect, and down the sides of your nose to slim its appearance. Do not be afraid of the initial stripes; we will blend them later. Next, apply your lighter cream concealer to the areas you want to bring forward. This includes under your eyes to brighten, in the center of your forehead, down the bridge of your nose, and on the tip of your chin. Now for the most important part; blending. Using a damp sponge or a dense brush, gently stipple and blend out the contour and concealer. The key is to soften the edges so there are no harsh lines, but not to over-blend to the point where the dimension disappears. The two tones should melt seamlessly into each other and into your skin. Finally, apply your foundation. Dispense a small amount of your sheer foundation onto the back of your hand, and using your damp sponge, lightly press and stipple it over your entire face, right on top of the contour and highlight. This thin layer will unify everything, creating that coveted, soft-focus dimension.

Common mistakes to avoid for a flawless finish

While underpainting can deliver stunning results, a few common missteps can derail the entire look. The most frequent error is using too much product. Remember, the goal is subtlety. Applying thick layers of contour and concealer will be difficult to blend and can lead to a heavy feeling, even under a sheer foundation. Start with a small amount of product and build it up only if necessary. Another major pitfall is using the wrong product formulations. Sticking to the ‘creams before powders’ rule is non-negotiable here. Applying a powder contour before a liquid foundation will result in a streaky, cakey application that refuses to blend. Always use cream or liquid products for your underpainting steps. The third crucial mistake is insufficient blending. If you can see distinct lines of where your contour starts and your highlight ends before you apply foundation, those lines will likely still be visible afterwards. Take an extra minute to really diffuse the edges of your sculpting products for a smooth gradient. Your choice of foundation is also a make-or-break factor. Using a high-coverage foundation is counterproductive as it will simply erase all the dimensional work you just did. You must use a formula with a sheer or light-to-medium finish to allow the underlying sculpt to show through. Lastly, pay close attention to your shade selection. A contour shade that is too warm or orange will look like a bronzer streak instead of a natural shadow, while a concealer that is excessively bright can look stark and unnatural. Choose your shades carefully for the most believable finish.

Adapting underpainting for every skin type and tone

The beauty of the underpainting technique is its versatility. With minor adjustments, it can be tailored to flatter any skin type, age, or tone. For those with oily skin, the key is longevity. Opt for long-wearing cream formulas and consider setting your initial contour and highlight with a very light dusting of translucent powder before you apply your foundation. After the final foundation step, another light powdering in the T-zone can help control shine throughout the day. Conversely, if you have dry skin, hydration is your best friend. Start with a rich moisturizer and a hydrating primer. Choose dewy, luminous cream products to impart a healthy glow and avoid any mattifying formulas. You might even skip setting powder altogether to maintain that radiant finish. This technique is particularly wonderful for mature skin, as it avoids creating thick layers of makeup that can settle into fine lines and wrinkles. The focus on creams and light layers results in a fresh, youthful appearance. Strategic placement of contour just above the cheekbone can also create a beautiful lifting effect. For different skin tones, the principle remains the same but shade selection is critical. For very fair skin, finding a contour that is not too dark or warm is essential; look for taupe or grey-toned creams. For deep and rich skin tones, choose deep, rich contour shades and warm, golden highlighters to create dimension without looking ashy. The technique is universal; the products are personal.

In conclusion, the underpainting revival is far more than a fleeting social media trend. It represents a fundamental shift towards a more intuitive and skin-like approach to makeup. By creating dimension and shape as the foundational first step, this technique allows for a stunningly natural finish that enhances rather than masks your features. It’s a method that champions a ‘less is more’ philosophy, proving that a flawless complexion does not require heavy layers of product. The key takeaways are simple; use cream products, blend them seamlessly, and top with a sheer foundation to unify the look. This masterclass has shown that whether you are a makeup novice or a seasoned enthusiast, underpainting is an accessible and adaptable technique. It empowers you to sculpt your face from within, achieving a long-lasting, soft-focus glow that was once a closely guarded celebrity secret. So, embrace the process, experiment with product placement, and unlock a new level of confidence in your makeup routine. The future of flawless makeup is not about covering up, but about revealing the beautiful structure that lies just beneath the surface.

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