Have you ever wondered how celebrities achieve that impossibly perfect, sculpted yet utterly natural glow? It is a finish that looks less like makeup and more like a feat of genetic perfection. The answer, surprisingly, is not a new filter or a space-age foundation. Instead, it is a classic makeup artist technique that has been revived and catapulted into the spotlight by social media and celebrity artists like Mary Phillips. Welcome to the world of underpainting, also known as reverse contouring. This method flips the conventional makeup application on its head, promising a seamless, lit-from-within dimension that traditional techniques struggle to replicate. In an era dominated by the ‘clean girl’ aesthetic and a desire for skin that looks like skin, underpainting has emerged as the definitive method for achieving a flawless base. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from the theory behind the technique to a step-by-step masterclass that will transform your makeup routine forever.
What exactly is underpainting?
Underpainting is a makeup application technique where dimensional products like contour, concealer, and blush are applied to the skin before the foundation. This is a direct reversal of the more common method where foundation is applied first, followed by products to add shape and color on top. The core philosophy of underpainting is to create a structure of light and shadow that appears to emanate from within the skin itself, rather than sitting on the surface. By placing your sculpting products underneath a sheer veil of foundation, you diffuse the edges and create a much softer, more believable effect. It is the difference between painting a face and sculpting one. This method has been a long-held secret among professional makeup artists for film and photoshoots because of its ability to look incredible both on camera and in person. The recent viral trend, largely credited to makeup artist Mary Phillips for her work on clients like Hailey Bieber, has simply brought this professional secret to the mainstream, allowing everyone to access a more refined and natural-looking approach to base makeup.
The tools and products you will need
Success with underpainting hinges on using the right product textures. This technique is built around cream and liquid formulas that melt into the skin and can be layered seamlessly. Powder products are generally not suitable for the initial underpainting steps as they do not blend well under a liquid or cream foundation. Your essential toolkit should include a few key items. First, a cream contour product, preferably in a stick or wand for easy application. Choose a shade that mimics a natural shadow, usually a cool-toned shade a few degrees deeper than your skin tone. Next, you will need a brightening concealer or a cream highlighter without excessive glitter. This will be used to bring forward the high points of your face. A liquid or cream blush is also crucial for adding a natural, healthy flush. Of course, you will need a light to medium coverage foundation; a heavy, full-coverage formula would defeat the purpose by obscuring all your work. Finally, the most important tool is a damp makeup sponge. A sponge is non-negotiable for this technique as it gently presses and melts the products together and applies foundation in a sheer layer without disturbing the products underneath. Brushes can sometimes swipe away the underpainting, but a sponge ensures a flawless blend.
Step-by-step the underpainting application
Let us break down the process into simple, manageable steps. Begin with your usual skincare routine, ensuring your face is clean, moisturized, and primed. A hydrated canvas is key. Now, take your cream contour. Apply it directly to the areas you want to recede or define. This typically includes the hollows of your cheeks, along your jawline, on the temples, and down the sides of your nose. Do not worry about it looking perfect just yet. Next, apply your brightening concealer or cream highlight. Place this on the high points of your face that you want to bring forward; under the eyes, in the center of the forehead, down the bridge of your nose, and on the tip of your chin. After highlighting, add a pop of color with your cream blush on the apples of your cheeks, blending it slightly upwards towards your temples. Now comes the first blending stage. Using a damp makeup sponge, gently press and tap to blend out all the products you have just applied. The goal is to soften the lines and create a smooth gradient, but not to blend them away completely. You should see a soft, sculpted map of your face before you even think about foundation.
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The crucial foundation step
This is the moment where the magic of underpainting truly reveals itself. The key to this step is restraint. You are not trying to cover your skin; you are simply trying to unify your skin tone and fuse the underpainting together. Select a lightweight, liquid foundation. Dispense a small amount onto the back of your hand. Using your damp makeup sponge, pick up a tiny amount of foundation and begin gently stippling or bouncing it over your face. Start in the center of your face and work your way outwards. This stippling motion is critical. If you swipe or drag the sponge, you will smear and erase the carefully placed contour and highlight underneath. The goal is to apply a sheer, translucent veil of foundation that allows the dimension from the underpainting to show through. You will notice that you need far less foundation than you normally would, as the underpainting has already done most of the corrective work. The foundation’s job is simply to act as a filter, evening out the skin tone and making the whole look cohesive. The result should be a base that looks flawlessly sculpted but with no obvious makeup lines. It is your skin, but perfected.
Common mistakes to avoid
While the underpainting technique is transformative, a few common errors can derail your results. The most frequent mistake is using products that are too heavy. Thick, opaque cream contours or concealers will be difficult to blend and can look muddy under foundation. Always opt for thinner, more buildable formulas. Another major pitfall is applying too much foundation or using a full-coverage formula. This completely negates the purpose of underpainting by masking all of your dimensional work. Remember, foundation is a unifying veil, not a blanket. Insufficient blending is another issue. Before applying foundation, ensure your contour, highlight, and blush are softly diffused. Harsh lines underneath will still look like harsh, albeit slightly blurry, lines on top. Using the wrong tools can also be problematic. While some brushes might work, a damp sponge is nearly foolproof for achieving that seamless, airbrushed effect by pressing products into the skin rather than moving them around. Finally, be mindful of your color choices. A contour that is too warm can look orange and unnatural, while a highlight that is too shimmery can look like a stripe of glitter underneath your foundation. Stick to natural, skin-like tones and finishes.
Why this technique is trending now
The resurgence of underpainting aligns perfectly with the current beauty zeitgeist. We have collectively moved away from the heavy, ‘Instagram brow’ and sharp contour of the 2010s towards a more minimalist, skin-focused aesthetic. Trends like ‘glass skin’, ‘cloud skin’, and the overarching ‘clean girl’ look all prioritize a healthy, natural, and radiant complexion. Underpainting is the technical engine that drives this look. It delivers sculpted, flawless-looking skin without the visible artifice of makeup.
‘It is about creating bone structure that looks real’, says one leading beauty editor. ‘The goal is for people to compliment your skin, not your makeup’.
Its popularity on platforms like TikTok and Instagram is a testament to its efficacy. Viewers can see the transformation in real-time, demystifying a once-exclusive professional technique. It empowers the everyday makeup user to achieve a sophisticated, long-lasting finish that was previously the domain of celebrity artists. It feels modern because it is intuitive, focusing on enhancing one’s natural features rather than masking them, a philosophy that deeply resonates with today’s beauty consumer.
In conclusion, the reverse contour or underpainting technique is more than just a fleeting trend; it is a fundamental shift in how we can approach base makeup. By prioritizing dimension and structure first, we create a look that is not only stunningly natural but also incredibly long-lasting, as the products are locked in beneath the foundation. This method encourages a ‘less is more’ approach, proving that you do not need heavy layers to achieve a flawless, sculpted complexion. It may feel counterintuitive to apply your makeup ‘out of order’, but the results speak for themselves a seamless, lit-from-within glow that appears to be part of your skin. This masterclass has provided the map, but the real magic happens when you pick up your sponge and experiment. Embrace the process, trust the technique, and unlock the secret to skin that looks effortlessly perfect, every single time. It is a powerful reminder that sometimes, the best beauty secrets are the ones that have been hiding in plain sight all along.
