Have you ever scrolled through social media and wondered how celebrities and influencers achieve that radiant, sculpted, ‘lit-from-within’ look that seems to defy reality? It is not always a digital filter; often, it is a classic makeup artist technique that has made a major comeback. Welcome to the world of underpainting. This method, recently popularized by celebrity makeup artists like Mary Phillips, involves applying your contour, blush, and highlight before your foundation. The result is a seamless, dimensional finish where your features are shaped and defined from beneath your base, creating a truly natural and flawless filter effect. Forget heavy layers of product sitting on top of your skin. Underpainting is about building structure in a softer, more integrated way. In this guide, we will explore everything you need to know to master this game-changing technique, from the core concept and product selection to a step-by-step application process and advanced tips for a look that lasts all day.
What is underpainting and why is it back in the spotlight
Underpainting is a professional makeup technique that strategically reverses the typical application order. Instead of applying foundation first and then layering contour, blush, and highlight on top, you apply these sculpting and color products directly onto your prepped skin. Your foundation or skin tint is then applied over them, usually with a light hand. This process allows the products underneath to peek through subtly, creating dimension that appears to come from within the skin itself rather than sitting on the surface. The effect is remarkably natural, avoiding the harsh lines or obvious product placement that can sometimes occur with traditional methods. While the technique has been in makeup artists’ toolkits for decades, its recent resurgence is largely thanks to social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram. Artists showcasing their work on high-profile clients like Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner have brought underpainting to a massive new audience. Its popularity stems from a collective desire for makeup that enhances rather than masks. In an era of ‘clean girl’ aesthetics and ‘skinimalism’, underpainting fits perfectly. It delivers a sculpted, polished look without the weight or cakey finish of heavy makeup, making it the ideal way to achieve that coveted, real-life flawless filter.
Choosing the right products for a seamless blend
The success of your underpainting hinges almost entirely on the products you choose. For this technique to work its magic, you must prioritize cream or liquid formulas. These products melt into the skin and blend together far more seamlessly than powders, which is crucial for a smooth base before foundation. When selecting a contour product, opt for a cream in a cool-toned shade a few shades deeper than your skin tone; this will mimic natural shadows. For bronzing, a warmer-toned cream will add sun-kissed warmth. For blush, liquid or cream formulas in shades of pink, peach, or berry provide a natural-looking flush. The highlighter should also be a liquid or cream formula to create a dewy, ‘glass skin’ effect on the high points of your face. Arguably the most important product choice is your foundation. You must use a sheer, lightweight foundation, a skin tint, or a tinted moisturizer. A full-coverage, matte foundation will completely erase all your hard work. The goal is to let the underpainting show through, so your base product should act as a sheer veil that evens out skin tone while allowing the dimension beneath to shine. Think of it as putting a translucent curtain over a beautifully arranged room; you still see the shapes and colors, but they are softened and unified.
A step-by-step guide to the basic underpainting technique
Mastering underpainting is easier than it looks and follows a logical sequence. First, always begin with a clean, well-moisturized face and apply your favorite primer to create a smooth canvas. This prep step is non-negotiable for a flawless outcome. Next, take your cream contour and apply it to the areas you want to define. This typically includes the hollows of your cheeks, along your jawline, on the sides of your nose, and around your hairline. Be precise but do not worry about perfect blending just yet. Following the contour, apply your cream or liquid blush. Smile gently and tap the blush onto the apples of your cheeks, blending it upward toward your temples. This placement creates a lifted effect. After blush, it is time for highlighter. Apply your liquid highlighter to the high points of your face where light would naturally hit; the top of your cheekbones, the bridge of your nose, your cupid’s bow, and just above your brow arch. Now for the most important part; blending. Using a damp makeup sponge or a dense brush, gently tap and blend all the cream products. You want to soften the edges so there are no harsh lines, but keep the placement intact. Finally, apply your sheer foundation or skin tint over your entire face, using a stippling or patting motion. Avoid swiping or rubbing, as this will displace the products underneath. The gentle patting motion will meld the foundation with the underpainting for a perfect, seamless finish.
Product Recommendation:
- SkinSmart Facial Cleanser for Acne, Targets Bacteria for Active Teenage Athletes Post Workout and Adult Acne, 8 oz Spray Bottle, Safe for Multiple Daily Uses
- 79 Pcs Face Paint Stencils Kits, 69 Pcs Facial Painting Stencils & 10 Pcs Painting Brushes, Face Tracing Stencils Body Paint Templates for Halloween Party Kids Adults Makeup
- 18 Pack Glow in The Dark Paint, Face Body Paint Sticks Makeup Painting Kits for Kids Adult, Neon UV Crayons Kit for Halloween and Parties
- Christian Gifts for Women, With God All Things Are Possible Makeup Bag, Small Cosmetic Bag, Friendship Birthday Gifts for Women Friends, Waterproof Canvas Makeup Bag Travel Essentials-D42
- 3Pcs Face Body Paint, Professional Paint for Halloween Cosplay Costume Party, Full-coverage Multi-Color Cream Makeup Body Paint for Adult Halloween Cosplay SFX Makeup Paint (White+Black+Silver)
Adapting underpainting for different skin types
While the core technique remains the same, tailoring your approach to your specific skin type is key for the best results and longevity. For those with oily skin, the main goal is control and endurance. Start with a mattifying primer in your T-zone. Opt for long-wearing cream formulas that set down and are less emollient. After applying your sheer foundation, you can strategically set the underpainted areas with a corresponding powder product; a powder bronzer over your cream contour, a powder blush over your cream blush. This locks in the creams and adds an extra layer of oil absorption. A final mist of a quality setting spray will be your best friend. For dry skin, hydration is paramount. Begin with a rich moisturizer and a hydrating, luminous primer. Choose dewy, serum-like cream products that will not cling to dry patches. You might even want to mix a drop of facial oil into your foundation for an extra boost of glow. Skip setting powders altogether, or use a very fine, radiant-finish powder only where absolutely necessary. The goal is to maintain that fresh, plump, and moisturized look throughout the day. For those with mature skin, placement is everything. Use contour subtly to lift the face, focusing on the cheekbones and jawline while avoiding any areas with significant fine lines. Choose satin-finish blushes and apply them slightly higher on the cheekbone to create a youthful lift. Importantly, avoid glittery or intensely shimmery highlighters, as these can accentuate skin texture. A subtle, pearlescent liquid illuminator will provide a beautiful glow without emphasizing lines.
Common mistakes to avoid for a flawless finish
Even with the right products, a few common missteps can derail your underpainting efforts. One of the most frequent errors is using too much product. Remember, you are applying multiple layers, so start with a less-is-more approach. You can always add more, but it is difficult to take away. Build your contour, blush, and highlight in thin, sheer layers. Another major mistake is using a heavy hand or the wrong tool to apply your foundation. If you use a dense, full-coverage foundation or apply it with a swiping motion, you will completely cover up your beautiful underpainting work. This defeats the entire purpose of the technique. Always use a sheer formula and apply it with a light, patting motion using a damp sponge. Not blending the cream products sufficiently before applying foundation is another pitfall. This can result in a splotchy or uneven appearance once the foundation is on top. Take a moment to gently diffuse the edges of your contour, blush, and highlight so they melt seamlessly into one another. Finally, choosing the wrong shades can be disastrous. A contour that is too warm or orange will look like a bad bronzer application, while a blush that is too bright or misplaced can look unnatural. Take the time to find shades that truly mimic the natural shadows and flushes of your own skin for the most believable and flattering result.
Advanced techniques and setting for longevity
Once you have mastered the basics, you can incorporate more advanced strategies to customize your look and ensure it lasts. One such technique is color correcting during the underpainting stage. If you have dark under-eye circles, apply a peach or orange-toned color corrector before your concealer and foundation. For redness around the nose or on blemishes, a green color corrector can be applied sparingly. These correctors are applied during the initial product-mapping stage and then covered by your foundation, neutralizing discoloration from within for an incredibly even complexion. To intensify your look for an evening event or for photography, you can employ a technique called ‘baking’ or ‘setting’. After applying your foundation over the cream products, use a translucent setting powder to bake under the eyes and beneath your contour line. Let it sit for a few minutes before dusting it away. This brightens and sharpens the look. You can also lightly dust powder versions of your blush and bronzer over the corresponding cream areas to add vibrancy and lock everything in place. The final, crucial step for longevity is a high-quality setting spray. Different sprays offer different finishes; choose a mattifying one if you are oily or a dewy one if you want to enhance the glow. A generous mist will meld all the layers together and create a protective film that helps your flawless filter effect last for hours on end.
In conclusion, the underpainting technique is more than just a fleeting trend; it is a fundamental shift in how we can approach makeup application. By building dimension from the base up, you can achieve a sculpted, radiant, and incredibly natural finish that truly looks like your skin, but better. It demystifies the art of contouring and highlighting, making a professional-looking result accessible to everyone. The journey begins with choosing the right cream and liquid products and a sheer foundation that allows your work to shine through. From there, it is about the simple, strategic layering; contour, blush, highlight, and then foundation. By avoiding common mistakes like over-application and improper blending, and by adapting the method for your unique skin type, you can unlock a new level of flawless. So, embrace this technique. Experiment with it, have fun, and enjoy the confidence that comes with creating a beautiful, seamless, and long-lasting makeup look that is all your own.
